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Pro Guiding Service
Domestic & International Trips & Courses with Certified Mountain Guides
Trip

4-Day Mountaineering Course in the North Cascades

Overview

This course will give you a solid introduction to all aspects of classic mountaineering in the best venue in the lower 48 states, North Cascades National Park. The immediate access to moderately crevassed glaciers, steep climbing on great rock and exposed ridge travel make the Boston Basin area the ideal setting for a mountaineering course.

$1,030 Per Person
4 Days
Difficulty
Ratio:
3:1, 6:2

Trip Information

$1,030
Price based on 3 climbers per guide. Please contact us directly for private trips. 425-888-6397 x2 | info@proguiding.com
The terrain of the North Cascades National Park is the best all round mountaineering course location in the lower forty-eight states. The course objective is to introduce you to all aspects of mountaineering. The terrain provides a perfect classroom and the small client to guide ratio allows for movement-based learning in relevant terrain. We will set up base camp in the Boston Basin area and conduct our course from there. This in-depth introduction into the world of mountaineering will get you ready for many of our other guided programs or personal climbing adventures all over the world.
Why Pro Guiding Service:
We have been a concessionaire in North Cascades Natioinal Park for almost 15 years with a perfect safety record. We offer a small participant to instructor ratio at 3:1 and 6:2 max. This is a very important factor in being able to tailor the program to the participants needs. A relatively small group is actually crucial to being able to take advantage of what Boston Basin has to offer. We also pride ourselves in creating relevant and movement based lesson plans. The Boston Basin is a steep and partially glaciated cirque that is rimmed by spectacular peaks in all levels of difficulty. The curriculum for this course was designed by Martin Volken, a longtime AMGA instructor/examiner, so you can be assured that you will be taught a modern curriculum. Pro Guiding Service's guides are professional mountain guides, meaning they are either certified guides or are actively pursuing a path of professional mountain guiding education by the American Mountain Guides Association. 
Our five-day course is designed to combine the excellent  instructional environment of the Boston Basin with several summit climbs. We generally climb Sahale Peak and Sharkfin Tower. We have taught enough of these courses to make the curriculum very mature and we are very proud of this course.  Please be aware the course curriculum may vary depending on weather and general conditions.
 
Why the North Cascades Mountaineering Course: 
Easy access:
The access from the Seattle or Vancouver airports is very reasonable. This means that you can get to Marblemount, WA from the Seattle  area in a short 3 hour drive (1 to 2 hours from Vancouver), get to the trailhead and reach Boston Basin that afternoon. Our first camp is one of the Boston Basin camps at either 5400 feet or 6000 feet. From here we can access glaciated terrain in about 30 minutes and the hike to the glacier itself is already part of the basic movement skills curriculum. So, in other words, the course is 4 days long and you will be immersed in the alpine environment of Boston Basin with Forbidden Peak, Sharkfin Tower, Sahale Peak and Johannesberg Mountain providing an amazing classroom and backdrop. 
It is the terrain; Glaciers, Ridges, Towers and Slabs: 
General mountaineering comprises many technical elements on many different terrain types. What makes the area so special is that just about all the different terrain types are immediately accessible from Camp. We generally describe the area of the Boston Basin as a compressed version of the Swiss Alps. This is what makes the area ideal for educational courses. The Quien Sabe Glacier above camp is easily accessible. It provides enough crevassed terrain to warrant real glacier travel techniques. But before that the access hike will allow for opportunities to walk on glacier polished slabs and teach basic route finding techniques. Sahale Peak via the Quien Sabe Glacier is an entertaining and rewarding summit that introduces the travel to glacier travel, some exposed ridge and finally a few steps of rock climbing all in a span of 2000 feet of vertical. 
There is also the newly named Aiguille de l'M, which is effectively a small summit in the Forbidden Peak zone, which is a prime training ground for classic ridge travel. 
In other words, these objectives are big enough to feel like you are standing on real summit, but attainable enough that we can utilize the routes for educational purposes. 
Moderate  elevation:
The moderate elevation of the North Cascades make a huge difference in how you feel. You do not need to worry about acclimatization, you can just concentrate on the technical aspects of the course curriculum, which is great. There is a lot to learn. 
A word about the camps:
The view in the camps are dominated by Johannesberg Mountain on the other side of the valley. This backdrop is very dramatic and nobody ever seems to tire of the amazing view. There is also running water and a composting toilet available in both camps. As simple as these two things are, they make a big difference in creating a comfortable atmosphere around camp. 
A lot of information: 
The course is designed to offer an in depth introduction to the exciting world of classic mountaineering. The days are packed with physical movement and hands on learning while still providing a couple hours each afternoon to just relax in camp. 
 
Duration: 4
Ratio: 3:1, 6:2
Difficulty Level:
Click here to learn more about difficulty ratings.
Overall difficulty: Moderate
Experience Required: No prior mountaineering experience required; but good physical fitness will make your trip safer and more enjoyable.  
Fitness: Very good physical fitness is required; you should be able to hike or climb for more than six hours with a pack varying from 20 to 40 pounds and ascend 3,000 to 4,000 feet of vertical gain per day for up to 3 days. 

Private Trips Available

Pro Guiding Service proudly offers the most diverse ski touring and ski mountaineering programs of any guiding service in the Northwest.
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Itinerary

Day 1: We will meet at the Marblemount Ranger Station and then commute up the Cascades River Road to the Boston Basin trailhead at 3200 feet. The ascent up to the camp at 5400 feet is not that long, but it is strenuous. We should be there in the middle of the afternoon with enough time to cover the following topics near camp:
1. National Park and Forest Service regulations
2. Pre-trip Planning 
• appropriate gear selection
• appropriate food selection
• fuel calculations
• discussion and distribution of group gear
3. Camping Skills
• campsite selection
• principles of “Leave No Trace”
• stove maintenance
4. Introduction to movement in 4th class terrain with big boots
 
Day 2: You will be climbing Sahale Peak while being introduced to the basic elements of ice axe and crampon use in snowy terrain. You will also cover:
5. Roped Travel and Rope Management
• ropes and rope selection
• basic knots
• roped travel and correct spacing
• glacier travel
• transitions of terrain
6. Basic Glaciology
• formation of glaciers
• the budget of a glacier
• formation of crevasses
• recognizing hidden crevasses
 
Day 3: This day is fully dedicated to crevasse rescue and cramponing technique and basic movement on ice. A little less physical, but quite technical. Here is what you will cover:
7. Crevasse Rescue and Self Rescue
• anchor systems
• load transfer
• crevasse rescue
• self rescue
8. Classic crampon technique introduction to ice climbing
 
Day 4: Yet another early start. We want to give you another opportunity to move on 4th class rock, which we can accomplish in the vicinity of our camp. We can dedicate about 2 hours to that, since we still have to cover the very important topic of tour planning before heading down the road at around 1pm. You can count on being down at the car at around 3pm.
10. Movement in 4th class terrain
11. Navigation
• tour planning
• map work
• compass work
• time calculations
 

Private Trips

Pro Guiding Service proudly offers the most diverse ski touring and ski mountaineering programs of any guiding service in the Northwest. Smaller, more intimate custom itineraries or instructional tours are available for any of our destinations. Tell us what you want to do, and we can create a customized plan for you.
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Pricing

$1,030
per person
Price based on 3 climbers per guide. Please contact us directly for private trips. 425-888-6397 x2 | info@proguiding.com
View Dates & Availability
Payment Policy
If booking a domestic trip that is over 30 days away or an international trip that is over 60 days away, you can book your trip by paying a 20% deposit.  View Full Policy
Cancellation Policy
If you cancel for any reason 30 or more days before domestic trips or 60 or more days before international and Alaska trips, we will refund everything you have paid minus half of your deposit. No refunds will be provided if you cancel your trip for ANY REASON (this includes but is not limited to illness including CoVid-19, injury, or work-related issues) within 30 days of the start of domestic trips or 60 days of international and Alaska based trips.  View Full Policy

Equipment List

Clothing
Base Layer
  • 1 Bottom - midweight or lightweight
  • 1 or 2 Tops - midweight or lightweight
  • Socks - 2 pair
Mid Layer
  • Windshirt or light soft shell jacket
  • Fleece or similar warm layer
  • Synthetic climbing or hiking pants
Outerwear
  • Lightweight Waterproof/Breathable Jacket
  • Lightweight Waterproof/Breathable Pants
  • Warm Hat - should cover your ears
  • Sun Hat - baseball cap or visor
  • Lightweight Gloves
  • Ski Gloves/Mittens
  • Down or Synthetic Puffy-type Jacket
  • Gaiters - low top or full size
Personal Gear
  • Internal Frame Pack - 50 Liter/3100 cu.in. minimum
    • Everything must fit inside except ice axe, crampons, helmet, and pad
    • If approach shoes are worn, mountaineering boots may be on outside of pack as well
  • Sleeping Bag - down or synthetic, 20º F or warmer
  • Compression Sack - for sleeping bag
  • Sleeping Pad - closed cell foam or self inflating (or both)
  • Headlamp - lightweight LED recommended
  • 2 Water Bottles - liter bottles, wide mouth recommended
  • Water purification - tablets or filter
  • Bowl and Cup - bowl is optional if eating from freeze-dried meal bags
  • Spoon, Fork, or Spork
  • Small Knife
  • Sunglasses - adequate for snow travel
  • Sunscreen - SPF 25+, waterproof
  • Lip Balm - SPF 15+
  • Lighter
  • Personal Toiletries - keep it simple: toothbrush, tiny toothpaste, hand sanitizer
  • Small Personal First Aid Kit - just the basics: blister care, ibuprofin, prescription meds, etc.; your guides will have a substantial group first aid kit
  • Toilet Paper (blue bags provided by PGS)
Technical Gear
  • Ice Axe - lightweight, 45-70cm
  • Mountaineering Boots - crampon compatible
  • Boot Crampons - 10-12 point steel with anti-ball plates, pre-fit to boots
  • Climbing Harness - mountaineering style preferred (no padding; ex: BD Alpine Bod)
  • Adjustable Trekking Pole(s) - nice to have for approach/crevasse navigation
  • Helmet - climbing helmet UIAA approved
  • Crevasse Rescue Kit:
    • 4 Locking Carabiners - 2 large/2 small with at least 1 large HMS style
    • 4 Non-locking Carabiners - any style, we recommend wire gates
    • 1 Single Length Dyneema/Dynex Runner/Sling (60cm/24in diameter loop)
    • 1 Double Length Dyneema/Dynex Runner/Sling (120cm/48in diameter loop)
    • 1 Cordelette - 6 mm cord, 6 meter length
    • 1 Cordelette - 6 mm cord, 3 meter length
    • 1-2 Prussik Loops - 3-4 feet of 6mm cordelette tied in loop with double fisherman's knot or a Sterling Hollowblock
    • 1-2 ice screws - 13-17 cm long
Optional Items
  • Camera - we’d like some shots for the PGS website!
  • Ear Plugs - essential for sound sleep
  • Camp Booties
  • Thermos - vacuum type
  • Electrolytes - tablets/powder/gel/blocks
  • Note Pad and Pencil - Rite-in-the-Rain brand waterproof notebooks work well
  • Compass - adjustable declination a must
  • Altimeter - Suunto watch works well
  • Map Case - large Ziploc bag works well
  • Maps - contact guiding office for appropriate quadrangles
  • Tibloc and/or MicroTraxion devices - used for crevasse rescue
  • Collapsible Water Canteen - good for storing snowmelt at camp
  • Liner socks - if blister-prone
  • Warm Socks - to sleep in
  • Approach shoes--lightweight running shoes work well
  • Foot Powder
  • Neck gaiter - for protecting your face from sun, wind, cold
  • Post-course care kit (to leave in car): cotton T-shirt, flip flops, favorite treats
Equipment Sales & Rental

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FAQs

What is the difference between the Mountaineering Course on Mount Baker and the North Cascades Mountaineering Course?

We answer this question on the phone regularly, so let us try to answer it here: The basic topography of the two venues is quite different. The Mount Baker course venue happens on almost exclusively glaciated terrain on the north side of this 10780 foot volcano. The Coleman, the Deming and potentially the Roosevelt Glaciers are our training ground and with that the focus is centered around all things snow and ice. Glacier travel, crampon work and crevasse rescue is a large topic on the Mount Baker Course. It certainly is an important topic in the North Cascades Course as well, but you will take a deeper dive into these topics on Mount Baker.

The North Cascades Mountaineering Course takes place in the Boston Basin in the shadow of the famous Forbidden Peak. The area essentially holds every element that you might encounter on a “classic mountaineering adventure”. The Boston Basin holds glaciers, steep couloirs, glacier polished slabs, narrow ridges, big faces and sharp peaks. Just like on Mount Baker, we teach very much what the terrain demands or rather we chose an extremely diverse zone of the North Cascades National Park to give the course participant a rounded introduction into world of mountaineering.

Both of the approaches into the camps are moderately strenuous, with the Boston Basin trail being a bit steeper. Both camps have running water and the views are stunning either way.

As soon as you leave camp, things start feeling a bit different. While you might have to commute for about 45 minutes up slabby rocks to reach the lower margins of the Quien Sabe Glacier and the amazing Sahale and Sharkfin summits beyond, you will find yourself wearing the crampons on the lower Coleman Glacier ice of Mount Baker almost immediately.

If you are looking for a great course to make you feel more comfortable on large glacier ascents (Rainier etc.), the Mount Baker Course is most likely for you, but if you are looking for an all-around introduction to the world of mountaineering and would like to summit classic peaks like Forbidden Peak, the Matterhorn, the venue we offer in the North Cascades is hard to beat.

In summary; if you want to truly learn the craft of mountaineering, you should take both courses. We are not saying this to sell more courses. Either one of these courses is a great start and there is some overlap, but together they build a fantastic mountaineering skill foundation. 

Does PGS provide food for the trip?

No, we do not provide food, but are perfectly happy to make food suggestions.

Can I buy food for the trip in Marblemount?

There is a small grocery store in the local Shell Station, but it only carries basic things. The last bigger grocery store is located near Concrete, WA.

I see that your ratio is smaller than Mountaineering Courses offered by some of the other guiding companies – does this mean that we will get to summit some peaks?

Yes, you will most likely summit a couple of peaks during the course. These peaks might be Sahale Peak and Sharkfin Tower. It also means that the entire nature of the week is more movement based and that you will be applying new concepts right away.

I do not have any prior mountaineering experience. Can I still come on the trip?

Yes, the trip is designed for novices and mountaineers with limited experience. The course is by nature of the terrain physically demanding. Good fitness is a prerequisite to your enjoyment of the week.

Should I tip my guide?

Although tipping is not a requirement, it is considered standard practice in the guiding industry and is appreciated by our guides. We generally recommend roughly 10%-15% of your course or trip cost or a flat amount that you are comfortable with.

Why Book With Us? 

Certified Professional Guides & All Access
All of our guides have the highest quality training and certification in the industry, and you can be sure that we have the permits, licenses and insurance in every location we operate.
Safe, Well-Planned Tour Design
Every tour has a carefully thought-out guide-to-customer ratio. You always get a safe, high-quality trip or learning environment with us.
Pioneers In The Industry
You will travel and learn from experts. We've pioneered several alpine climbing routes, ski descents, and traverses and we've written books on skills and routes in the industry. 
Read Our story
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