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Trip

Mt. Shuksan via the Sulphide

Overview

Climbing Mount Shuksan via the Sulphide Glacier is a special experience. The approach consists of a hike through old growth forest and a short ascent up a snowfield to the spectacular camp on the Sulphide Glacier. The summit days consists of a mellow glacier climb to the 800 foot summit pyramid. Here the nature of the climb changes radically and becomes a steep snow climb in early season or an easy, but engaging rock scramble in 4th and easy 5th class terrain in the later season. Either way you will be belayed by our experienced guides on the way up with some rappelling on the way down. A spectacular way to experience the rugged cascades on one of the most photographed mountains in North America.

$1,155 Per Person
3 Days
Difficulty
Ratio:
3:1, 6:2

Trip Information

$1,155
Price based on 3 climbers per guide. Please contact us directly for private trips. 425-888-6397 x2 | info@proguiding.com

Mt. Shuksan is an iconic peak of the North Cascades and boasts some of the most impressive icefalls, faces and towers this side of Alaska. The mountain combines world class scenery with a seemingly endless variety of ski routes from introductory ski mountaineering tours to extreme descents and everything in between. The Sulphide Glacier provides a little bit of everything from beautiful old growth forests to a mellow glacier climb to a rugged and well protected alpine rock climb.

Duration: 3
Ratio: 3:1, 6:2
Difficulty Level:
Click here to learn more about difficulty ratings.

Overall Difficulty: moderate

Skills: No prior mountaineering skills required.  Experience hiking for long days with a heavy pack and overnight backpacking strongly encouraged.

Fitness Level: Strenuous.  You must be able to carry a heavy pack for multiple days in a row for up to 8 hours at a time over 4500 feet of vertical elevation gain.


Private Trips Available

Don't see a date that works for you? Pro Guiding Service offers any trip or courses on a private basis. We are flexible! Call or email to inquire.
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Itinerary

Day 1: The trip will begin from the Mount Shuksan trailhead at approximately 2,500 feet elevation. You will climb through forest then subalpine to the lower reaches of the Sulphide Glacier at about 5,000-6,000 feet in elevation where you will establish camp.

Day 2: This day is an "active rest day," as you will be practicing basic mountaineering techniques required for the summit bid including crampon technique, ice axe self-arrest, rope travel skills, and efficient movement on snow and rock.

Day 3: The summit bid. You will likely wake up at some time in the middle of the night or very early morning, eat a quick breakfast, and get ready to climb. Often we reach the base of the summit pyramid as daylight breaks, and you are rewarded with spectacular views of Mount Baker and the surrounding peaks of the North Cascades. The summit pyramid presents about 800 feet climbing, sometimes steep snow, sometimes bare rock, and sometimes a little bit of both. After enjoying the satisfaction of a summit (9131 feet) and the view at the top you will descend to camp, pack up, and head all the way down and out to the trailhead. Note: sometimes, depending on conditions, weather, and the group's ability and skill level, the summit bid can occur on the second day. This allows for a night in camp after the summit bid and just a 7 mile hike out on the third day.

Private Trips

Pro Guiding Service proudly offers the most diverse ski touring and ski mountaineering programs of any guiding service in the Northwest. Smaller, more intimate custom itineraries or instructional tours are available for any of our destinations. Tell us what you want to do, and we can create a customized plan for you.
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Pricing

$1,155
per person
Price based on 3 climbers per guide. Please contact us directly for private trips. 425-888-6397 x2 | info@proguiding.com
View Dates & Availability
Payment Policy
If booking a domestic trip that is over 60 days away or an international trip that is over 90 days away, you can book your trip by paying a 20% deposit.  View Full Policy
Cancellation Policy
If you cancel for any reason 60 or more days before domestic trips or 90 or more days before international and Alaska trips, we will refund everything you have paid minus half of your deposit. No refunds will be provided if you cancel your trip for ANY REASON (this includes but is not limited to illness including CoVid-19, injury, or work-related issues) within 60 days of the start of domestic trips or 90 days of international and Alaska based trips.  View Full Policy

Equipment List

Clothing
Base Layer
  • 1 Bottom - midweight or lightweight
  • 1 or 2 Tops - midweight or lightweight
  • Socks - 2 pair
Mid Layer
  • Windshirt or light soft shell jacket
  • Fleece or similar warm layer
  • Synthetic climbing or hiking pants
Outerwear
  • Lightweight Waterproof/Breathable Jacket
  • Lightweight Waterproof/Breathable Pants
  • Warm Hat - should cover your ears
  • Sun Hat - baseball cap or visor
  • Lightweight Gloves
  • Warm Gloves/Mittens
  • Down or Synthetic Puffy-type Jacket
  • Gaiters - low top or full size
Personal Gear
  • Backpack - 50 Liter/3100 cu.in. minimum
    • Everything must fit inside except ice axe, crampons, helmet, and pad
    • If approach shoes are worn, mountaineering boots may be on outside of pack as well
  • Sleeping Bag - down or synthetic, 20º F or warmer
  • Compression Sack - for sleeping bag
  • Sleeping Pad - closed cell foam or self inflating (or both)
  • Headlamp - lightweight LED recommended
  • 2 Water Bottles - liter bottles, wide mouth recommended
  • Water purification - tablets or filter
  • Bowl and Cup - bowl is optional if eating from freeze-dried meal bags
  • Spoon, Fork, or Spork
  • Sunglasses - adequate for snow travel
  • Sunscreen - SPF 25+, waterproof
  • Lip Balm - SPF 15+
  • Lighter
  • Personal Toiletries - keep it simple: toothbrush, tiny toothpaste, hand sanitizer
  • Small Personal First Aid Kit - just the basics: blister care, ibuprofin, prescription meds, etc.; your guides will have a substantial group first aid kit
  • Toilet Paper (blue bags provided by PGS)
Technical Gear
  • Ice Axe - lightweight, 45-70cm
  • Mountaineering Boots - crampon compatible
  • Boot Crampons - 10-12 point steel with anti-ball plates, pre-fit to boots
  • Climbing Harness - mountaineering style preferred (no padding; ex: Petzl Altitude, Black Diamond Couloir)
  • Adjustable Trekking Pole(s) - nice to have for approach/crevasse navigation
  • Helmet - climbing helmet UIAA approved
  • Personal Anchor System
  • Belay Device
  • Glacier Travel Kit:
    • 2 Locking Carabiners - 2 large/2 small with at least 1 large HMS style
    • 2 Non-locking Carabiners - any style, we recommend wire gates
    • 1 Single Length Dyneema/Dynex Runner/Sling (60cm/24in diameter loop)
    • 1 Double Length Dyneema/Dynex Runner/Sling (120cm/48in diameter loop)
    • 1 Cordelette - 6 mm cord, 6 meter length
Optional Items
  • Ear Plugs - essential for sound sleep
  • Camp Booties
  • Thermos - vacuum type
  • Electrolytes - tablets/powder/gel/blocks
  • Compass - adjustable declination a must
  • Tibloc and/or MicroTraxion devices - used for crevasse rescue
  • Collapsible Water Canteen - good for storing snowmelt at camp
  • Liner socks - if blister-prone
  • Warm Socks - to sleep in
  • Approach shoes--lightweight running shoes work well
  • Small knife
  • Neck gaiter - for protecting your face from sun, wind, cold
  • Post-course care kit (to leave in car): cotton T-shirt, flip flops, favorite treats
Equipment Sales & Rental

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FAQs

Does PGS provide food?

No, you are responsible for your own food. We are happy to provide suggestions, though!

What size pack should I bring?

Try to fit your gear into a 50 liter pack.

Should I tip my guide?

Although tipping is not a requirement, it is considered standard practice in the guiding industry and is appreciated by our guides. We generally recommend roughly 10%-15% of your trip cost or a flat amount that you are comfortable with.

Why Book With Us? 

Certified Professional Guides & All Access
All of our guides have the highest quality training and certification in the industry, and you can be sure that we have the permits, licenses and insurance in every location we operate.
Safe, Well-Planned Tour Design
Every tour has a carefully thought-out guide-to-customer ratio. You always get a safe, high-quality trip or learning environment with us.
Pioneers In The Industry
You will travel and learn from experts. We've pioneered several alpine climbing routes, ski descents, and traverses and we've written books on skills and routes in the industry. 
Read Our story
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