Bugaboo Provincial Park in British Columbia is one of North America’s most famous alpine climbing areas. It is on just about every climber's tick list. The "Bugs" are famous for good reason. The approaches are moderate, there is a cool hut, the granite is outstanding, and the routes are world class. Let's go climbing there for a full week and enjoy some of the moderate super classics.
The objective of this guided mountaineering program is simple: climbing and instruction on the area’s famous classic rock routes with our guides. In addition to Bugaboo Spire, Pigeon Spire and Snowpatch Spire, there are many enjoyable adventure mountain climbing routes on other nearby granite spires.
This guided mountaineering trip is designed for intermediate rock climbers who also have some mountaineering experience. The itinerary might include staying in the Conrad Kain hut. The hut certainly adds comfort, but it also increases the approach time every day a little bit. The trip could also be designed with camping instead of a hut stay.
This amazing week will give you the opportunity to climb classic routes at your comfort level while learning along the way.
Overall Difficulty: Difficult
Skills Required: Prior rock climbing experience, comfortable following up to 5.9
Fitness Level: Strenuous
Day 1: We meet near Seattle at 7:00 am and drive to Parson near the entrance of Bugaboo Provincial Park. This will take all day.
Day 2: An early breakfast and up we go to the Conrad Kain hut. The hut sits perched high on a bench above Bugaboo Creek. In the afternoon, we should have enough time to do a little bit of warm up climbing near the hut.
Day 3: There are so many objectives, but warming up on a beautiful and relatively easy objective like the Pigeon Spire West Ridge would be a great first day. Some say that it is the best 5.4 multi pitch route in Canada.
Day 4 to 6: There is so much to choose from, but some of the Classics include the Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire, the famous Snowpatch Spire, and so many more. At the end of the 6th day, we will have to hike back down into the Valley and rest up in a comfortable B and B for the long drive back to Seattle that awaits us the next day.
Day 7: The long drive home.
Guided trips like the Bugaboo climbing week require basic prior mountaineering experience such as walking with crampons, ice axe self arrest, and walking while roped. The approaches to the climbs are fairly basic, but can take up to a couple of hours, so efficient movement and good fitness really helps.
The Bugaboos offer everything from easy climbing to the very hard alpine rock routes. Our week aims to climb some of the moderate classics; if you feel comfortable following up to 5.9, you will be fine.
Yes, it is perfect for that and some of the climbs are just as hard as the Alps climbing objectives.
No, you are responsible for your own food. We are glad to help with food suggestions, though.
Try to fit your gear into a 50 liter pack for the approach to the Conrad Kain Hut and bring a smaller pack for the rock routes.