Pro Guiding Service
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Trip

3-Day Mt. Baker North Ridge

Overview

The Baker North Ridge is one of top 5 classic ice routes in the lower 48 states and one of the 50 classic climbs of North America. Standing at 10,781 feet, Mount Baker is the third highest peak in the State of Washington. This route is a super classic.

$1,150 Per Person
3 Days
Difficulty
Ratio:
2:1

Trip Information

$1,150
Price is based on 2 climbers. Please call us for pricing for a single climber. 425-888-6397 x2 | info@proguiding.com
The Mount Baker North Ridge climb is one of the 50 classic climbs of North America - for good reason. Standing at 10,781 feet, Mount Baker is the third highest peak in the State of Washington. It is very glaciated with some of its glaciers dropping below 4,000 feet. The Baker North Ridge is one of top 5 classic ice routes in the lower 48 states. We'll cross the Coleman Glacier at first light to get to the base of the route. We then climb 50 degree snow and ice to reach ice pitches (steepness up to 70 degrees), and then you get to climb more 50 degree snow and ice to reach the summit. The Mount Baker North Ridge is a high quality classic ice route from the start to the end. 
Duration: 3
Ratio: 2:1
Difficulty Level:
Click here to learn more about difficulty ratings.
Overall Difficulty Rating: DIFFICULT
 Skills: Mountaineering and ice climbing experience required
Fitness Level: EXCELLENT
 
The Baker North Ridge is rated a Grade III+ or IV depending on conditions. It involves substantial glacier travel, crampon front pointing and some moderately steep ice climbing.
Prior mounaineering experience required; 
You should have glacier travel experience and solid cramponing skills. Continuous movement in exposed terrain should not be a problem. Elementary rope handling skills such as tying in, rappelling and belaying are required.
Excellent physical fitness; you should be able to hike or climb for 6 to 10 hours with a pack varying from 20 to 40 pounds and ascend 4,000 to 5,000 feet of vertical gain per day for several days.

Private Trips Available

Pro Guiding Service proudly offers the most diverse ski touring and ski mountaineering programs of any guiding service in the Northwest.
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Itinerary

Day one:
From the ranger station in Glacier, WA we will commute together to the end of the road at 3600 feet (The Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead). A two to three hour hike will bring us through spectacular old growth forest to about 5000 feet. From here we leave the well maintained hiking trail and head up the steep climbers trail past the Hogsback climbers camp at 6000 feet. We have the option of camping here or to continue another hour to the spectacular camp on Heliotrope Ridge at right around 7000 feet. Either one will put us in a great position for our summit day the next day. 
Day two:
It’s definitely a pre-dawn start. It takes about 2 hours to make it across the Coleman Glacier. Depending on the condition of the glacier, this can be very easy or quite adventurous. From the base of the route at around 8000 feet, we ascend the “access slopes” either on the west side of the North Ridge proper or climb up the Roosevelt Glacier until we can access the Mount Baker North Ridge proper between 8300 and 9000 feet. The crux ice pitches are encountered at 9500 feet. The setting of these pitches is hard to surpass. You will be climbing high above the Roosevelt Glacier Cirque in perfect glacier ice. Unforgettable! Above the ice pitches more moderate snow and ice pitches (up to 50 degrees) will provide more entertainment. The slope angle eases off at around 10'000 feet below the summit ice cap. Generally we cruise through this section via the summit slopes of the Roosevelt Glacier. From here it is not far to the top at 10,781 feet. The way off the mountain is quite easy via the standard Coleman Deming Glacier route and we should be back in camp in the middle of the afternoon. The work is done and we can enjoy a beautiful evening from camp. Views include our route, the Puget Sound, and the sprawling nightlights of Vancouver.
Day three:
After a leisurely breakfast we pack up camp, descend down to the Lower Camps and ice climb a couple hours on our way out. Depending on weather conditions we might also switch the order of day two and three.

Private Trips

Pro Guiding Service proudly offers the most diverse ski touring and ski mountaineering programs of any guiding service in the Northwest. Smaller, more intimate custom itineraries or instructional tours are available for any of our destinations. Tell us what you want to do, and we can create a customized plan for you.
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Pricing

$1,150
per person
Price is based on 2 climbers. Please call us for pricing for a single climber. 425-888-6397 x2 | info@proguiding.com
View Dates & Availability
Payment Policy
If booking a domestic trip that is over 30 days away or an international trip that is over 60 days away, you can book your trip by paying a 20% deposit.  View Full Policy
Cancellation Policy
If you cancel for any reason 30 or more days before domestic trips or 60 or more days before international and Alaska trips, we will refund everything you have paid minus half of your deposit. No refunds will be provided if you cancel your trip for ANY REASON (this includes but is not limited to illness including CoVid-19, injury, or work-related issues) within 30 days of the start of domestic trips or 60 days of international and Alaska based trips.  View Full Policy

Equipment List

Clothing
Base Layer
  • 1 Bottom - midweight or lightweight
  • 1 or 2 Tops - midweight or lightweight
  • Socks - 2 pair
Mid Layer
  • Windshirt or light soft shell jacket
  • Fleece or similar warm layer
  • Synthetic climbing or hiking pants
Outerwear
  • Lightweight Waterproof/Breathable Jacket
  • Lightweight Waterproof/Breathable Pants
  • Warm Hat - should cover your ears
  • Sun Hat - baseball cap or visor
  • Lightweight Gloves
  • Ski Gloves/Mittens
  • Down or Synthetic Puffy-type Jacket
  • Gaiters - low top or full size
Personal Gear
  • Internal Frame Pack - 50 Liter/3100 cu.in. minimum
    • Everything must fit inside except ice axe, crampons, helmet, and pad
    • If approach shoes are worn, mountaineering boots may be on outside of pack as well
  • Sleeping Bag - down or synthetic, 20º F or warmer
  • Compression Sack - for sleeping bag
  • Sleeping Pad - closed cell foam or self inflating (or both)
  • Headlamp - lightweight LED recommended
  • 2 Water Bottles - liter bottles, wide mouth recommended
  • Water purification - tablets or filter
  • Bowl and Cup - bowl is optional if eating from freeze-dried meal bags
  • Spoon, Fork, or Spork
  • Small Knife
  • Sunglasses - adequate for snow travel
  • Sunscreen - SPF 25+, waterproof
  • Lip Balm - SPF 15+
  • Lighter
  • Personal Toiletries - keep it simple: toothbrush, tiny toothpaste, hand sanitizer
  • Small Personal First Aid Kit - just the basics: blister care, ibuprofin, prescription meds, etc.; your guides will have a substantial group first aid kit
  • Toilet Paper (blue bags provided by PGS)
Technical Gear
  • 2 All-Mountain Ice Axes ideal for steep ice. 45-55cm
  • Mountaineering Boots - crampon compatible and suited for extended front point work on Ice.
  • Boot Crampons - 12 point steel with anti-ball plates, pre-fit to boots
  • Climbing Harness - mountaineering style preferred (no padding; ex: Petzl Altitude, Black Diamond Couloir)
  • Adjustable Trekking Pole(s) - nice to have for approach/crevasse navigation
  • Helmet - climbing helmet UIAA approved
  • Crevasse Rescue Kit:
    • 4 Locking Carabiners - 2 large/2 small with at least 1 large HMS style
    • 4 Non-locking Carabiners - any style, we recommend wire gates
    • 1 Single Length Dyneema/Dynex Runner/Sling (60cm/24in diameter loop)
    • 1 Double Length Dyneema/Dynex Runner/Sling (120cm/48in diameter loop)
    • 1 Cordelette - 6 mm cord, 6 meter length
    • 1 Cordelette - 6 mm cord, 3 meter length
    • 1-2 Prussik Loops - 3-4 feet of 6mm cordelette tied in loop with double fisherman's knot or a Sterling Hollowblock
    • 2 ice screws - 13-17 cm long
Optional Items
  • Camera - we’d like some shots for the PGS website!
  • Ear Plugs - essential for sound sleep
  • Camp Booties
  • Thermos - vacuum type
  • Electrolytes - tablets/powder/gel/blocks
  • Note Pad and Pencil - Rite-in-the-Rain brand waterproof notebooks work well
  • Compass - adjustable declination a must
  • Altimeter - Suunto watch works well
  • Map Case - large Ziploc bag works well
  • Maps - contact guiding office for appropriate quadrangles
  • Tibloc and/or MicroTraxion devices - used for crevasse rescue
  • Collapsible Water Canteen - good for storing snowmelt at camp
  • Liner socks - if blister-prone
  • Warm Socks - to sleep in
  • Approach shoes--lightweight running shoes work well
  • Foot Powder
  • Neck gaiter - for protecting your face from sun, wind, cold
  • Post-course care kit (to leave in car): cotton T-shirt, flip flops, favorite treats
Equipment Sales & Rental

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FAQs

Where will we be climbing?

We will be climbing on the north side of Mount Baker, mainly on the Coleman Glacier.

Will we be able to do some ice climbing before we do the actual route?

Yes, the lower Coleman Glacier is probably on the best spots for summer ice climbing in the lower 48 states and we intend to take advantage of it!

Does PGS provide food?

No you are responsible for your own food. We are glad to help with food suggestions, though!

What size pack should I bring?

Try to fit your gear into a 50 liter pack or bring a smaller pack for summit day.

Should I tip my guide?

Although tipping is not a requirement, it is considered standard practice in the guiding industry and is appreciated by our guides. We generally recommend roughly 10%-15% of your course or trip cost or a flat amolunt that you are comfortable with.

Why Book With Us? 

Certified Professional Guides & All Access
All of our guides have the highest quality training and certification in the industry, and you can be sure that we have the permits, licenses and insurance in every location we operate.
Safe, Well-Planned Tour Design
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You will travel and learn from experts. We've pioneered several alpine climbing routes, ski descents, and traverses and we've written books on skills and routes in the industry. 
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