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At 13,300 feet, Mount Waddington is the highest mountain in British Columbia. The Waddington Range is known in the climbing community for its great granite, endless number of routes, vast ski touring terrain and remote location - so remote that access becomes easy. We drive to a heli-port west of Williams Lake, B.C. and fly into the heart of the range with White Saddle Air.
2026 Dates: May 1-10
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At 13,300 feet, Mount Waddington is the highest mountain in British Columbia. The Waddington Range is known in the climbing community for its great granite, endless number of routes, vast ski touring terrain and remote location - so remote that access becomes easy. We drive to a heli-port west of Williams Lake, B.C. and fly into the heart of the range with White Saddle Air. Once there, we will establish a comfortable base camp on the Dais Glacier, which allows us to complete a number of beautiful ski tours and descents with light packs. The highlight of the trip will be the descent of the West Summit of Mount Waddington.Â
It is a well known fact that the weather in the Canadian Coast Range can be stormy and a bad weather forecast could leave one stranded in the Waddington Mountains for days, or prevent you from flying to the Dais Glacier in the first place. No worries though - we have a world class alternative ready for you. If the weather is not cooperating, we will opt to fly to Nirvana Pass in the Pantheon Range instead. Nirvana Pass is located a bit further north and more importantly further east, which means that it is a bit more protected from the Coastal Storms. What is a mystery to all the Pro Guiding Service guides is why this place is not more famous. It is arguably one of the best ski touring areas we have ever guided in. The possibilities are truly endless.Â
Overall Difficulty Level:Â Very difficult
Skills Required:Â Â Advanced skiing ability and prior ski touring experienceÂ
Fitness Level:Â Very strenuous due to climbing and ski touring at high altitude with big overnight packs
Day 1: We will meet at White Saddle Air Base near Tatla Lake in the late afternoon. Quite often we end up driving to Tatla Lake from the Seattle area together. The drive takes pretty much all day. Once in White Saddle we will settle into the cozy B & B, organize our gear, have dinner, and generally get ready for the next day.
Day 2: A 30-minute flight will get us to our base camp area near Fury Gap on the Dais Glacier. This spot is one of the most spectacular spots in the coastal mountains. The rest of the day is spent establishing camp and exploring possibilities for day tours. Cavalier Mountain is a great objective that can be accomplished on the first day.
Day 3 to 4: Depending on conditions and weather we will shift our attention to the NW summit of Waddington. We will access this spectacular ski summit via the upper Dais Glacier and the Angel Glacier. We will establish an advanced camp at the base of the Angel Glacier. The ambiance of the upper section of Mount Waddington is beyond description, you have to see it to believe it! On the summit day we will ascend those slopes, summit and return all the way back to our base camp on the Dais Glacier.
Day 5 to 8: We can now shift our attention to day tours on the endless terrain near our base camp. This may include ascents of Mount Monday, Fireworks Peak, Sir Chris Spencer and much more.
Day 9 and 10: It is time to get ready for the flight out. We will have been in radio communication with the Heli base throughout the week. Depending on conditions the departure preparations could be as simple as packing up the tent and waiting for the helicopter or it could involve a full day’s worth of travel over Fury Gap and down the lower Scimitar Glacier. Please do not schedule an important meeting for the morning of the “eleventh day.”
Side Note: This amazing ski mountaineering trip takes place in one the very remote regions of the Canadian Coast Range and that is why the itinerary regarding the fly-out portion has be somewhat flexible. We depend on the helicopter to get us out and the weather conditions may or may not allow for a timely pick up.
Although tipping is not a requirement, it is considered standard practice in the guiding industry and is appreciated by our guides. We generally recommend roughly 10%-15% of your course or trip cost or a flat amount that you are comfortable with.
